Dolpa is the most remote and lead developed district situated in the Tran Himalayan region of the mid western Nepal. It has scattered fascinating villages and is still the land of Mystery, serenity and peace. Though a few anthropologists and geographers explored the region, the entire district was closed to foreigners until 1989, when the southern part of Dolpa, including the Ringmo or Phoksundo lake wad opened to the organized trekking group only.

The north of Phoksundo Lake is still closed to foreigners. However, it is possible to visit Tibetan style " inner Dolpa " villages in Tarap and the Phoksundo Lake. Most of the southern part of Dolpa is a region of Hindu influence. The region abounds in a host of snow peaks, including the seventh highest peak in the world Dhaulagiri (8167 m.) and also had the country's deepest lake Phoksundo .

Shay Phoksundo National park (3555sq.km.) is endowed with the luxurious forests of the lower Himalayan region and near desert like landscape of the trans Himalayan region and alpine flora and fauna similar to the Tibetan Plateau. The Tibetan here (Lepus capesis) Himalayan weasel (muster sibirica) and snow leopard (Panthera unica) are the typical mammals of this region.

One can reach to Dolpa from Jumla Dhorpatan and Surkhet. There is an airstrip at Juphal named Dolpa, a half day from the district headquarter in Dunai. Another airstrip in Chaurjahari is 4 days walk from Dunai.

Trekking permit procedure and the trekking permit fees for Dolpa trek is different from other common trekking areas. Dolpa trek permits are available only to those who have trekking programs arranged through a registered trekking agency.
This section describes a 14 days trek to Jumla-Phoksundo Lake - Juphal (Dolpa airport) For such trek one can fly to Jumla and then start the trekking. For the return one can fly to Nepalgunj from Juphal to take another flight to Kathmandu. One can also take a bus ride to Kathmandu from Nepalgunj

JUMLA TO GOTHICHAUR ( 5 hours )

From Jumla, at 2370 meters, the trail leads passing through the airport to several water driven mills which drops in to the confluence of the Tila khola and Juwa nadi.
Crossing both rivers on cantilever bridge and climbing gently a fertile valley of rice terraces along the south side of the Tila to Depal Gaon, the trek continues forested hills on both sides of the village gradually reaching Garjung kot village at 8100ft. Then contour around to right leaving river below and cross a stream running off of Gothichaur. From here the trail leads to steep climb with stream to right.
The first Chaur is beautiful valley with rolling hills and numbers of herder’s huts throughout valley. Continue up to pass at 9980ft. with nice view from hill and drop down to camp below sheep farm by river.

GOTHICHAUR TO NAPHUKANA ( 5 hours )

The Trail climbs to a pass with rock cairn at 2830 m. then descends into a magnificent valley that looks totally uninhabited. The trail descends past the sheep breeding project building at Gothichaur to a stream at the bottom of the valley.
There is another trail junction here. Do not take the trail that leads uphill out of the Gothichaur valley, instead walk downstream through forests down to a series of mills at Kuri Sangta. There is a good campsite a short distance beyond where the Kuri sangta khola joins the Tila nadi.
The route has now reentered the Tila valley and over the next day one has to follow the river to its source. The trail crosses to the north side to the Tila and passes corn and potato fields.
The river forks at Munigaon a village with a complex mixture of Chhettri, Thakali and Tibetan inhabitants. There are several houses, and accommodation facilities at the trail junction, Muni sangu.
The trail follows the left fork, which is the main Tila River as the valley narrow and enters a forest of spruce, poplar and maples.
The trail stays on the south side of the river, so one should not cross any of the bridge that passes.
A short distance beyond Changrikot the trail finally crosses the river and climb to Chotra at 3010 m.
A short distance beyond is the Tibetan settlement of Naphukana at 3080 m.
There is a large monastery above the village. There are couple of possible campsites near the village also in a meadow at 3200 m. one hour above Naphukana .


NAPHUKANA TO BARBARE LA BASE ( 5 hours )

The trail climbs gradually through the forest to a clearing at 10740ft. where a view of the snow capped peak Gutumpa 5806 m. off to the left can be seen. The trail toward Barbare La goes up off to the left. Climb out of the forest and follow a stream up towards a peak, which is above the pass. After crossing a bridge and climbing a little one can get the excellent view of Mata Tumpa peak 18993ft. with its hanging glacier. Camp here in a field bellow the pass at 12240ft

BARBARE LA BASE TO RIDGE CAMP (ABOVE HURIKOT ( 3 hours )

The trail climb steeply on a rocky often nonexistence trail to the Barbare La pass with numerous stupas on top from where one can get the excellent views of Mata Tumpa as well as the valley way below.
Traverse to the left for about one hour and climb up to a lower notch with a great panorama of the Kagmara peaks, Balangra pass and the whole Bheri valley . Camp at Bishe Chaur with great views all around

RIDGE CAMP TO TOIJEM ( 5 hours )
From the camp there is an excellent sunrise view of Mata Tumpa to the north, Kagmara peak at northeast and Balangra pass 12333ft. at the south east which leads to Duni. Avobe it off in the distance is Dhaulagiri I.
Drop down to Hurikot the last village of chhetries before Kagmara pass. There are many walls and stupas leading into town. Following the Bheri river on the west bank to its source , climb steadily past the last field of Hurikot through forest of wallnuts and oaks .
The trail climb up to 9920ft. where one can see the junction of the Jagdula and Garpung kholas . From here continue on to a signboard at 10000ft. announcing the entrance into the Shey Phoksundo National park and descend through jungle to a natural bridge over the Jagdula khola composed of gaint boulders.
Today's camp is at the Toijem army post at 9600ft. and the only flat ground around.

TOIJEM TO KAGMARA PHEDI ( 6 hours )
The day begins with a steep climb through the jungle above the past. There may be possibilities to spot some monkeys into the forest or Ghoral high above ridge.
The trail climbs up and down along the river. After about three to three and half hours, cross the Garpung khola to the east side. There is a good spot for lunch. From here the trail climbs up above the river passing many waterfalls in a narrow gorge till reaching the top at 12880ft.
Trail continues on the right side dropping down to cross at least 4 tributories to the Garpung. It is best to camp in a meadow across from a waterfall at 12880ft., which is reached after about one and half hours from lunch at the bridge.

KAGMARA PHEDI TO LASA MEADOWS ( 5 hours )
The advantage of staying at the Lasa Meadows is the shear beauty of the place.
From here one can look back and see the Kagmara peak as well as that of Kanjiraluwa ahead. From the high camp it is only about two to two and half hours to the pass.
The trail switches back up to plateau at 4580 m. and then continues off to the left around a small hill, which is 100 m. higher. At about 4800 m. one can see the entire glacier as well as the prayer flag.
There is a campsite below at 4750 m. with water.
There is a big glacier bowl here with a small lake. The valley ahead is lonely with flowers. Descend gradually through the valley crossing the stream from left to right about one hour from top at 4470 m. Today's camp can be made after crossing over the stream.

LASA MEADOWS TO SUMDUWA ( 5 hours )
From the camp continue through the valley above the river to the point where another stream joins to from the Dojam khola and continue downstream through a narrowing gorge with spetacular waterfalls mainly on the other side.
Cross the Dojam khola to the left side on a wooden bridge and continue downstream along the Dojam khola by climbing up and down through forests and besides the field of Pungmo, and pass the setllement occupied by Pungmp people. Sumduwa, the National Park Headquarter and army bade with Helicopter pad is reached in about one hour from Pungmo. Camp by riverside.

SUMDUWA TO PHOKSUNDO LAKE ( 4 to 5 hours )
From the camp the trail continues on the left side of the Phoksundo khola passing a bridge at 9840ft. The route on the left goes direct to Phoksundo via Palan village used by Ringmo people during winter when there is too much snow at Ringmo. From here there is a very long and steep climb to the first waterfalls view at 11800ft. It takes about two hours from Sumduwa to reach here.
The highest point to cross before descending to Ringmo is about 11920ft. It takes about three hours to Ringmo from Sumduwa , including many stops . From above one can see the wheat and potato fields all around Ringmo. One can see many stupas in the town but Gumpa is on the other side of the lake beyond the camp.
The campsite is reached by crossing a bridge below Ringmo on the right and then walking for about 15 minutes to the Lake. There are other lakes near the campsite on the Ringmo side. Lake side camp is at 11440ft.

REST DAY AT PHOKSUNDO

PHOKSUNDO TO SUMDUWA

From the camp walk past Ringmo staying on the left side of the river and climb gently through the forest to a high point of 121180ft. where one is awarded with a view of Phoksundo khola valley as well as waterfalls. Continue to reach a notch at 11960ft. and the trail descends to Murwo the summer pasture of Ringmo village.
The trail splits here with the high trail going to the restricted Bagala and Numala passes. A steep drop takes to a bridge at 10680ft. and climb to Murwo. From here contour down the valley along the river to Sumduwa .


SUMDUWA TO CHEPKA ( 6 hours )

Today's trail is characterized by extreme ups and downs. The day starts after crossing the Phoksundo khola from campsite. The trail stays along the river through the forest but soon enough goes up and down. After about two and half hours the trail is steeply carved into the rock steps so small it is difficult to keep one's feet on them. The trail goes way above the river 10400ft. contouring around the hillside only to drop back again before climbing back. The camp is along the side.


CHEPKA TO DUNAI ( Four to four and half hours )

Although the today's trail is ups and downs it is much easier then yesterday. It takes one hour to reach Anke 8660ft. the army post that serves as entrance and exit point for the National Park. From here, the trail contour around the ridge climbing to Rahagaon the last permanent village on the trail to Dunai. Here there are many shrines dedicated to the animistic God Masta.
From Rahagaon drop and cross a stream and the climb and contour around ridge until the last ridge at 8260ft. where one can see the whole settlement of Dunai at 6920ft. Descend down on often steep trail to the Thulo Bheri River. Here there is a new suspension bridge as well as an old richly wooden bridge one my cross to reach the bazaar. Campsite is before the bridge by the river.


DUNAI TO JUPHAL ( Two to two and half hours )

From Dunai follow the river downstream to Roop Ghara and on to the small hotel at Kala Gaura 2090m. Elevation Take the uphill trail and climb through meadows past a few houses.
Stay high and avoid the lower trail that leads to the large village of Dangi Bhara, eventually reaching a school just before the airport at2500m. The airport is surrounded by a tangled barbed wire.
There is no sensible campsite here, but it is possible to camp below the airfield.
Dolpa flights are always early morning. High winds in the Thulo Bheri valley begin at about 10am. so flights are impossible late in the day . So one has to spend a night at the airport.