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DOLALGHAT TO CHATARA
The most common put in point of a Sukoshi river trip is
Dolalghat; 3 hours drive east of Kathmandu. At the outset,
the river is peaceful and the first day is a leisurely
introduction to river life. The gentle sloping hills are
typical to this area. Rich color and varied rock formations
are evident during the entire trip. The Sunkoshi traverses
the Mahabarat range and follows one of the main geological
fault lines of the Himalaya. Camp immediately after Koohyay
Bheer (rotten cliffy)
You hit a number of rapids after " Koohyay Bheer." En route
the second day you come across many ethnic groups , each
unique and colorful . Unlike other modes of travel, the
river provides an easy access to remote areas seldom seen or
visited by foreigner. Tonight's camp is above the Rosi khola,
a tributary of the Sunkoshi.
The third day, after a run of a few hours, you stop at
Jhunga khola, a beautiful Newar village, located on a bluff
above the river. The village is a collection of white houses
and grain fields. In the center of the village is a cobbled
square shaded by a large peepal tree, small shops where
merchants trade surround the square
In the afternoon the confluence of the Tambakoshi River is
crossed. On a hill above the river is a small temple
inhabited by a hermit. Temple and houses are built on the
ridge to aid easy travel and catch more sunshine during the
day. A visit to this temple is worthwhile. Later camps near
the village of Khurkot.
The next day the canyon changes. The ridge begins to close
in and the vegetation becomes thicker. You sail through an
interesting geological area and encounter a number of small
and medium size rapids. The Himalaya is supposed to have
been formed by the enormous pressure caused during the
collision process of two treat landmasses. Because of the
tremendous stress during the process, several faults were
forced throughout Nepal. The Sunkoshi criss crosses one of
these faults and the formations visible today are
extraordinary.
This afternoon lunch spot is on a beach in an oxbow section
of the river.
You continue through a maze of interesting rock formation.
To the observer they are a bewildering example of complex
and dynamic of nature. They may seem lifeless just as other
ordinary rocks, but they record untold history of the earth.
The white water picks up today. Near the village of Harkapur
you encounter the largest rapids of the trip. They rate
between 5 to 8 later camps near the confluence of the
Dudhkoshi River.
The next day the river widens below the Dodhkoshi and flows
through a broad valley. Fans of sand gravel spill into the
river from side canyons. Further on the Sunkoshi bends south
and cuts through the Mahabharat range. The topography wills
change. The steep hills are now behind and the area is
gentler. A number of small rapids rating between 3 to 5
class are encountered. Along the route many trails and
suspension bridge are visible, which are indicative of the
porter age still being the most important means of carrying
goods. Later camp will be near the Rasuwa khola.
The seventh day you enter tropical vegetation. The river
narrows into a gorge linked by thick forest. Broad leaf
trees, ferns, mosses, bamboo and creepers canopy the
riverbanks. During the windbreak you can shower under a
beautiful waterfall. It is a photographer's paradise.
The advantages of a long river trip if that it offers a
pleasing diversity of things within a short span of time. In
this trip you have 250 different species of orchids to look
for , River chats, dippers, flycatcher. Sibias, wall
creepers, bulbuls, fork tales, ibis bills are a few of the
almost 400 species of birds available around the basin. Camp
on a broach beach bordered by waterfall four hundred feet
high. The beaches on the lower section are covered with
deposits of mica.
The next day you pass several important ghats. A ghat is a
riverbank particularly used for religious and cultural
purposes by the Hindus in particular. Religious ceremonies
and cremation are common activities that take place at a
ghat. Relatively more Rais and Limbus are seen in this area.
Tonight camp at the confluence of the three main rivers of
the eastern Nepal. The junction is called Tribenighat where
the Arun and Tamor join the Sunkoshi to form the giant
Saptakoshi, which flows through Mahabharat range onto the
Genetic plain.
Below Tribenighat is Barah kshetra, a famous Hindu
pilgrimage. You stop by this temple on the ninth day. During
the full moon in January, thousand of Hindus gather at the
temple to worship. According to legend, a demon god who
resided this during prehistoric time was such a nuisance to
people that Vishnu; the Lord Preserver was forced to descend
from heaven in the guise of a pig to kill him.
Every year pilgrims visit the temple to celebrate lord
Vishnu's victory over the demon god. With today's lunch at
Chatara, the Sunkoshi trip comes to an end. The crewmembers
dismantle the gear. It is a 45 minutes drive through tall
woods and open field to Dharan, which used to be British
Gurkha Army recruiting center in Nepal for decades.
The tenth day is return to Kathmandu. You can choose either
a 45 minutes flight from Biratnagar or daylong drive from
Dharan or Biratnager to Kathmandu
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